Rodniańskie, Marmoroskie 2007
Poniżej zapraszam do przeczytania relacji z naszych wędrówek po Alpach Rodniańskich i Karpatach Marmoroskich. Po drodze zachaczyliśmy o malowane klasztory na Bukowinie, drewniane marmoroskie cerkwie, przejażdżkę Mocanitą i Wesoły Cmentarz w Sapincie.
Oprócz relacji zachęcam do obejrzenia fotorelacji.
A tak palcem po mapie też mozna z nami powędrować. Trasa naszej podróży i bardziej szczegółowo wędrówki po Alpach Rodniańskich i Karpatach Marmoroskich.
Relacja autorstwa Kasi
(cała w wersji pdf, bez zdjęć, gotowa do druku, jest do ściągnięcia tutaj).
Planowany dzień wyjazdu: 28 lipiec 2007 r., godziny poranne – ale bez przesady 🙂
Kraj: Rumunia przez Ukrainę
Ekipa: ja i Bartek (ale to się stało wiadome niedawno)
27-VII-2007 (piątek). Warszawa, pakowanie.
Wieczorem wychodzę z domu. Spakowana. Będę nocować u Bartka, bo rano…
Zabieramy się na Ukrainę z ekipą „dżipkową”. Ania, Kuba, Pyza, Piotrek, Tomek i Leszek też jadą do Rumunii. W dwóch terenóweczkach. Dla nas podróż z nimi ma być tańsza i wygodniejsza. No i w doborowym towarzystwie.
U Bartka atmosfera przedwyjazdowa, czyli „megapakowanie”. Na koniec przegląd mojego bagażu, bo jakiś ciężkawy. Wyrzucamy z niego tylko jedne spodnie. Resztę jednak trzeba będzie nosić na grzbiecie.
28-VII-2007 (sobota). Warszawa – hmmm… – Kruszuwiec – Warszawa.
Rano:
Jedziemy!!!
Albo nie….
Albo jedziemy!!!
Jednak nie jedziemy :/
Jak to się stało???
Jest wcześnie. Pełna gotowość i ekscytacja. Wszyscy spakowani. Siedzimy w samochodzie. Jedziemy do Leszka. Tam przerzucimy wszystkie bagaże do terenóweczki. Ania dzwoni do niego, że się spóźnimy 15 min., a on informuje nas, że nie jedziemy…
Alarm!!!
Jak to nie jedziemy???
Śledztwo wykazało, że to wszystko przez „dżipki”. Majster okazał się niekompetentny i po pierwsze spóźniał się z naprawą, a po drugie zamiast „dżipki” naprawić, to je zepsuł. To tak w skrócie.
No i dopada nas wielkie rozczarowanie. Ale postanawiamy wyładować bagaże u Leszka. Gdzieś tam jeszcze tli się w nas iskierka nadziei. Może po południu wyjedziemy, albo nawet wieczorem. Przecież szkoda urlopów!
Do diaska! Jednak nie… Nic się nie da zrobić. Jedziemy jutro.
Zdecydowaliśmy, że dzień spędzimy gdzieś pod Warszawą. Ostatecznie lądujemy na działce u Piotrka i Pyzy.
Ustaliliśmy, że budzimy się wcześnie. O godz. 4.00 jesteśmy u Leszka i pakujemy „dżipki”, żeby jak najszybciej wyjechać.
29-VII-2007 (niedziela). Warszawa – Czerniowce.
Udało się wszystkim obudzić i na umówioną godzinę stawiliśmy się u Leszka. Pakowanie trwa długo. Nikt tego nie przewidział. Wyjazd samochodowy oznacza wygodę, czyli można zabrać wszystko, co się przydać może w podróży. I nie koniecznie to jest jedzenie. Trzeba to potem upchnąć do tych samochodów i tutaj następuje rozczarowanie – terenóweczki nie są elastyczne. Skoro tramwaj może się rozciągnąć, to dlaczego terenóweczka nie? Ale się udało. Szybko staje się jasne, że tylnych drzwi zbyt pochopnie otwierać nie należy.
Jedziemy!!! Godzina 6.00. Wreszcie!
Nie wiem ile czasu jedziemy. Może z pół godziny. Konieczny staje się pierwszy postój. Nadwozie z prawej strony niszczy oponę. Terenóweczka źle reaguje na wyboje. Można się zdziwić…
Trzeba coś tam odpiłować na nadkolu żeby nie cięło opony. Przydaje się jeden z gadżetów Piotrka i Pyzy. Mała piła elektryczna zasilana akumulatorkiem, czyli do użycia „tu i teraz”. No i piłowanie trwało około godziny, ale się udało.
Prawie… Bo okazało się, że z lewej strony zachodzi to samo zjawisko, tylko na większych wybojach. Niestety akumulatorek się rozładował i piła nie działa. Trzeba tak jechać, aż będzie okazja do podładowania gadżetu.
Jedziemy, jedziemy… i trzeba zrobić kolejny postój. Śniadanie. To coś o czym marzą wszyscy. Kawunia i pyszniutkie naleśniki, jajecznice, twarożki ze szczypiorkiem i można jechać dalej.
Jedziemy, jedziemy… Koniecznie musimy się zatrzymać. Trzeba kupić rozgałęziacz, żeby go włożyć do gniazdka samochodowego i móc jednocześnie używać CB radia i lodówki. I żarówkę też trzeba kupić, bo się „dżipkowi” przepaliła. No i w ten sposób do granicy ukraińskiej zwiedzamy wszystkie stacje benzynowe. Dosłownie wszystkie.
Ta granica polsko – ukraińska niby coraz bliżej, a jakoś ciągle daleko.
No i stało się. Stoimy w kolejce. Kwitki wypełnione. Wreszcie! Jesteśmy szczęśliwi, chociaż frustracja osiąga apogeum. Kolejka na granicy nie jest taka długa, ale jakoś człowiek człowiekowi wilkiem, kiedy w kolejkę wcina się autobus pełen pasażerów. Jeszcze celnicy zechcą ich wszystkich skontrolować! Trzeba zmienić kolejkę! To oznacza, że trzeba się wciąć przed inne oczekujące samochody. ZARAZ DOSTANIESZ W RYJ BARANIE!!!
No i nasza kolej. Celnik każe otworzyć bagażnik. Szalony! Przecież widzi, że „dżipki” wyładowane po dach. No to akcja rozpoczęta. Ja i Bartek trzymamy wszystko od góry, Piotrek ostrożnie otwiera bagażnik. Nic się nie wysypało. Wydawałoby się, że celnik ma już dość,a tu przy drugim „dżipku” podobna operacja. Potem jeszcze jakieś kwity i wreszcie wjeżdżamy na ukraińskie drogi…
Właśnie – ukraińskie… A to nadkole z lewej strony tnie tą oponę. Ale trzeba jechać dalej. Tylko dziury omijać. He, he, he. Wolne żarty. Omijać dziury. No ale jakoś jedziemy. Cel to Czerniowce. Zrobiło się późno.
Nie chcąc niepokoić Lesi, która ma nas ugościć w Czerniowcach, decydujemy się na nocleg w przydrożnej ukraińskiej „głuszy”. Chcemy do Lesi zajechać rano, zanim jeszcze wyjdzie do pracy. To oznacza znowu pobudkę o godzinie 3.00. Ciężar obudzenia wszystkich spadł na mnie. No cóż. Na kogoś musiał. Bartka wykluczyłam od razu…
30-VII-2007 (poniedziałek). Czerniowce.
Udało się! Wszyscy wstali grzecznie o godz. 3.00. Nawet Bartek! Szybciutko się pakujemy i w drogę.
W Czerniowcach jesteśmy na czas. Wita nas Lesia. Częstuje herbatą, kanapkami. Ugotowała barszcz. Wszyscy są jakby nieprzytomni. Kierowcy zostali w „dżipkach” i zasnęli.
Tutaj się rozstajemy. Ja i Bartek zostajemy w Czerniowcach na jeden dzień. Ekipa „dżipkowa” jedzie dalej. Przed nimi Mołdawia.
Lesia do pracy, a my na zwiedzanie miasta. Oczywiście zahaczamy też o restauracyjkę. Ukraińskie piwo i pielmieny obowiązkowo.
Wieczorem spotkanie ze znajomymi. Do Lesi wpada „żywe srebro” Natalka z synem Ostapem. Dlaczego nie ma Tarasa? Przecież Lesia się z nim umawiała, że przyjdzie do niej…
Dzwoni telefon. Taras pyta, gdzie jesteśmy? Przecież umawiali się z Lesią, że przyjdziemy do niego…
Późno, ale jedziemy do Tarasa. Poznajemy jego świeżo poślubioną „żonkę”. No i dostaje nam się ostatnia już weselna flaszka. Zdrowie młodych! Za spotkanie polsko – ukraińskie! Za porozumienie polsko – ukraińskie!
Czas niestety mija przeraźliwie szybko, a my znowu planujemy wstać nieprzyzwoicie wcześnie, żeby zdążyć na autobus, który powiezie nas ku granicy ukraińsko – rumuńskiej i do Suczawy.
31-VII-2007 (wtorek). Czerniowce – Suczawa – Gura Humorului – Woroniec.
Wsiadamy do autobusu. Z mety dostajemy propozycję przewiezienia kartonu papierosów za 2 dolary. Nie zgadzamy się, ale niektórzy chętnie. Oprócz nas w autobusie jest jeszcze siedmioro pasażerów, w tym czworo „Polaków – turystów”. Po drodze wszystkie miejsca się zapełniają. Ludzie jadą na stojąco. Większość to Rumuni i Ukraińcy. Pełne zaciemnienie. Nie wolno mi odsłonić rąbka zasłonki. Jakaś kobieta karci mnie wzrokiem. Rozglądam się, a tam wszyscy chowają papierosy. Pod siedzenia autobusowe – to norma. Chowają w staniki, pończochy, specjalnie uszyte kieszonki, w spodnie, buty i nie wiem gdzie jeszcze. Atmosfera robi się nerwowa. Granica blisko. Ja czuję nieomal związek emocjonalny z przemytnikami. Zaczynam im kibicować. My „Polacy – turyści” trzymamy się razem. Wyraźnie czujemy się nieswojo.
Celnik każe wszystkim wysiąść z autobusu. Turyści, proszę bardzo przechodzić dalej. Reszta jest poddana niezłemu „odstrzałowi”. Około dziesięć osób zostało cofniętych. Nie pomogła im zrzutkowa łapówka Reszta może jechać dalej. Jedna pani przewiozła „w staniku” około 230 paczek papierosów! Brawo!
Jesteśmy w Rumunii. Wreszcie mogę odsłonić okna.
Na początek zaskoczyła mnie rumuńska uprzejmość i życzliwość. Okazuje się, że nieomal wszyscy młodzi Rumuni mówią po angielsku, a w dodatku chcą być bardzo pomocni. Takiej życzliwości, to nawet od własnych rodaków nie doświadczyłam. Nie zdarzyło mi się jeszcze, żeby kompletnie obca osoba zapraszała mnie do siebie do domu, a tutaj pani organizuje mi z wielkim przejęciem dostęp do internetu. Stwierdziła, że jej przyjaciel ma w mieszkaniu, więc zadzwoniła do niego z pytaniem, czy możemy do niego pójść. Nie było go w domu, ale gdyby był… Potem jakaś kobieta dawała mi masę rad w autobusie. Szkoda, że po rumuńsku. Usprawiedliwiała mnie i mój wielki plecak przed swoim znajomym, komplementowała, głaskała po twarzy… Następnie niezwykle uprzejma pani w kasie biletowej na dworcu kolejowym i usłużny pan konduktor na dworcu…
Później miało się okazać, że ta uprzejmość nie wszędzie jest jednakowa, ale na razie przeżywam szok.
No i wreszcie siedzimy w pociągu. Wszystko tu kontrastuje z pięknie odremontowanym dworcem kolejowym. Przedziały są w opłakanym stanie, a do tego mamy miejsca przy toalecie, więc po prostu cuchnie… Dobrze, że nie jedziemy daleko.
Wysiadka w Gurze Humorului. Tuż przy dworcu jakaś przyzwoicie wyglądająca restauracja, no i koniecznie ciorba de burte. Osławiona zupa okazała się jakaś mdła. Hmm… Jem i się nie przyznaję, że to nijak mi nie smakuje. Bartek się zachwyca. No cóż, smak to w końcu rzecz indywidualna. Ale nagle coś do mnie dociera… Bartek nie może się nachwalić, że zupa taka dobra, bo ostra. A ja przecież w życiu łagodniejszej i bardziej mdłej nie jadłam. No i okazało się, że skubaniec wciągnął cały smak razem ze śmietaną! Nieporozumienie. Zwyczajowo do ciorby podaje się śmietanę. Dostaliśmy dwa naczynia na stół. Nic zaskakującego. Dwie osoby, dwa naczynka. Okazało się, że w jednym śmietana była ostra, a w drugim łagodna. Bartek nic nie wiedząc wlał sobie całą ostrą, a ja łagodną. No i tak zamiast rumuńskiego przysmaku dostałam mdławą ciorbkę. Ale nic straconego. Nie raz jeszcze spróbuję. W rezultacie gorąco polecam! Nikomu nie polecam takich nieporozumień. Moja zupa okazała się ostrzejsza od papryczek-czuszek podawanych razem z ciorbą. [przyp. B.]
Tego dnia oglądamy jeszcze monastyr w Vorońcu. Równie interesująca jest rumuńska wieś. Odkrywam też, że „turysta – plecakowiec” to niezłe zjawisko dla Rumuna.
Noc spędzimy na campingu w sąsiedztwie rumuńskich rodzin, grillujących sobie w najlepsze.
01-VIII-2007 (środa). Gura Humorului – Monastirea Humorului – Ilva Mica.
W nocy bez przerwy padało. Na szczęście przestało około godz. 9.00. Możemy się swobodnie spakować i nawet namiot zdążył wyschnąć. Zaimpregnowana podłoga zdała egzamin. To mnie cieszy. Nikt nie przyszedł, nie skasował nas za nocleg. Nie wiadomo do kogo iść w tej sprawie, więc opuszczamy camping i w drogę.
Kolejne odkrycie. Ta sama trasa: taxi – 10 lei, busik – 1 leja od osoby, furmanka – nic nie kosztuje. Warto o tym pamiętać.
Oglądamy kolejny monastyr (Monastirea Humorului).
Wreszcie łapiemy pociąg w góry. Wpadamy na dworzec, a on już stoi. Mamy farta. Podróż będzie trwała 5 godz. Przedziały znowu są obleśne, ale już tym razem mamy miejsca już daleko od toalet. Daje się wytrzymać. Podziwiamy widoki. Zwłaszcza, że pomiędzy Vatra Dornei a Ilva Mica trasa przebiega między górami. Mijamy na zmianę tunel – most – tunel – most… Dużo ich. Jesteśmy pewni, że tam, na tak krótkim odcinku, jest więcej tuneli niż u nas w całej Polsce.
Dojeżdżamy do Ilva Mica, ale kolejny pociąg mamy dopiero rano. Nie ma gdzie spać. Atakujemy popa i ten pozwala nam rozbić namiot pod kościołem. Miło ze strony popa, chociaż uczucie dziwne. Dobrze, że nie ma w pobliżu cmentarza.
02-VIII-2007 (czwartek). Ilva Mica – Rodna – Sant – Valea Blaznei.
Znowu wstajemy rano. Bez problemu wsiadamy w pociąg, który wiezie nas do Rodny. Miasteczko brzydkie jak noc, ale tu startujemy w góry. Pijemy kawę. Robimy zakupy. W sklepie jest wszystko. Mamy mielonki, groszki, kukurydzę, pasztety i przyprawy. Zwłaszcza te ostatnie są ważne. Bartek bierze wszystko na grzbiet. Jego zdaniem to normalne. Robimy furorę jako „turyści – plecakowcy”.
Tutaj dowiadujemy się jak działa w Rumunii łapanie stopa. Turyści mają gorzej. My, czekając na transport do Sant, staliśmy około pół godziny. Miejscowi stoją około 5 min. Trzeba pójść w zwyczajowe miejsce. Tam ustawia się kolejka autostopowiczów. Jak się zatrzyma samochód, to bierze ich tylu, ile ma wolnych miejsc. Czasami kierowcy zatrzymują się sami z siebie, a to dlatego, że podróżowanie stopem jest w Rumunii popularne. Zdarza się, że trzeba zapłacić 1 lub 2 leje czyli tyle, ile kosztuje przejazd busikiem. Prawie nigdy nie zatrzymują się nowe i odjechane samochody, za to stare dacie… Jest ich pełno na rumuńskich drogach.
Od Sant idziemy już na piechotę. Piaszczysta droga wije się serpentyną. Chcemy nią dojść do pierwszego miejsca biwakowego. Długo wleczemy się pod górę. To dzień kryzysów i aklimatyzacji. No i mapa okazała się nie do końca dokładna, więc się plączemy, ale w końcu trafiamy na camping-schronisko w Valea Blaznei. To zdaje się jest siedziba Salvamontu. Gazda, w którego gospodarstwie rozbiliśmy namiot, rozdaje turystom swój numer telefonu. Karze dzwonić w razie wypadku. Tylko, że on rozmawia wyłącznie po rumuńsku. Za nocleg nic nie trzeba płacić, a są tam wszystkie wygody interesujące turystę górskiego: woda, ognisko i piękne widoki…
Spotkaliśmy tu dwóch Rumunów – Radu i Bogo. To rzadkość. Rumuni z plecakami i jeszcze w górach. Są anglojęzyczni. Dowiadujemy się od nich kilku ciekawych rzeczy. Dali nam też ciasteczka. Pyszne. Prześlą przepis mailem. Nasze trasy pokrywają się, więc nowi koledzy szybko postanowili się do nas przyłączyć. Czemu nie?
Zasnęliśmy szybko. Bartek chrapał.
03-VIII-2007 (piątek). Valea Blaznei – jeziorka Lala.
Spaliśmy wyśmienicie. Rano umyliśmy się porządnie. Szykujemy się na długi okres bez możliwości kąpieli.
Nareszcie! Idziemy i są góry!
Ogólnie mamy dobre tempo. Nasi rumuńscy koledzy idą wolniej, ale trzymamy się razem. Ja martwię się o swoją kondycję, ale nie jest najgorzej. Pierwsze podejście na szczyt (Vf. Rosu, czyli Czerwony Wierch) dało mi w kość, ale drugi z kolei, Ineut – najgorszy typ. Już ci się wydaje, że jesteś na górze, a tu figa. Jeszcze trochę, a potem znowu jeszcze trochę – końca nie widać. Nie kończąca się droga przez mękę. Tam to się dopiero zziajaliśmy… Potem to już spacerek. Zejście ścieżką w dolinę ze wspaniałymi polodowcowymi jeziorkami Lala Mica i Lala Mare. I źródełko tam wybijało. Tylko drewna na ognisko nigdzie nie ma. Taka bezdrzewna okolica. Nie ma jednak wyboru. To jedyne dozwolone miejsce biwakowe.
Bartek gotuje, ja zmywam. To się jakoś tak samo, naturalną drogą wyklarowało. Jemy mieszankę na bazie mielonki. Całkiem dobre. To już drugi dzień jemy to samo, ale przecież są przyprawy! Smakuje inaczej. Nawet trochę egzotycznie. Prawie jak dziczyzna.
Znowu nie mamy najmniejszych problemów z zaśnięciem. Jest spadek terenu. Zsuwamy się w namiocie, ale nic nas nie rusza. Bartek pewnie chrapie, ale nie słyszę.
W tym miejscu nie ma wielu turystów, ale pojawia się ich coraz więcej. Jeżeli Rumuni nie zadbają o jakieś sanitariaty w tej dolince, to wkrótce nie będzie tam tak ładnie. Podobno są już jakieś plany budowy bazy turystycznej w tym miejscu.
04-VIII-2007 (sobota). Jeziorka Lala – okolice Gargalau.
Chmurzy się. Kropi. Pada. Na szczęście niezbyt intensywnie. My decydujemy się iść, ale nasi Rumuni się wycofują. Uznali, że nie są dostatecznie przygotowani na taką pogodę. Żegnając się wymieniamy maile. Przypominam chłopakom o przepisie na ciasteczka i w drogę.
Przestało padać, ale chmury zostały. Zasłaniają nam widoki. Na szczęście od czasu do czasu wiatr je przeganiał, ukazując nam cudowne rumuńskie pejzaże. Do tego doszły niesamowite zjawiska atmosferyczne. To, co wiatr wyprawiał z chmurami jest charakterystyczne i często spotykane na szczytach górskich, ale robi wrażenie za każdym razem. Ineul okryty jest czapą szarej chmury, więc drapanie się na niego nie ma sensu. Omijamy go wygodnym trawersem. Niestety wiatr się wzmagał i naganiał coraz więcej deszczowych chmur. W okolicach Omului zaczęło padać. Nie bardzo intensywnie, ale monotonnie i w końcu trzeba było założyć kurtki.
W między czasie śmignął obok nas struś pędziwiatr. Jak się okazało Rumun. Szedł wprawdzie bez bagażu, ale i tak zadziwiło mnie jego tempo. Bez żadnej zadyszki przemknął szczytami w tą i z powrotem. Zagadał coś tam do nas, uśmiechnął się, a potem zniknął nam z oczu. No cóż, wleczemy się więc dalej. Cel to kolejne miejsce biwakowe zaznaczone na mapie w okolicach Saua Gargalau. Pada coraz bardziej.
No i stało się. Przemokliśmy kompletnie. W butach chlupie. Woda spływa z nas strumieniami. Kurtki w takich warunkach przestały zdawać egzamin. Wiatr szaleje. Zimno jest po prostu. Mgła taka, że widoczność mamy tylko na 5 metrów. Ścieżka się skończyła. Idziemy trochę po omacku szukając zejścia na camping. Według mapy, to gdzieś tutaj. Trochę się plączemy i nagle znowu wchodzimy na jakąś ścieżkę. Drogą szybkiej dedukcji wyszło nam, że jak ścieżka, to ktoś lub coś tędy chodzi w miarę często, co oznacza, że może nie wywiedzie nas tędy na zgubienie. No to idziemy. Wywiodło nas za to na koszmarny trawers. Taki po obsuwających się kamieniach i zdradliwych kępach trawy. Zaliczam go do najgorszych w moim życiu. Nawet nie wiem gdzie spadnę, bo pode mną chmury. Znowu jakaś ścieżka i nagle Bartek mknie po błocie niczym strzała… Ścieżka raz jest, raz jej nie ma. Już późno i nadal leje koszmarnie. Już wiemy, że noc spędzimy gdzieś tutaj. Natknęliśmy się na jakąś dolinkę ze źródełkiem. Koniec. Stawiamy namiot. Zimno nami telepie.
Namiot stoi. Plecak przemókł. Większość rzeczy mokra. Jakimś cudem zachowały się suche spodnie i polar, który okazuje się tylko lekko wilgotny. Mam drgawki z zimna. Aspirynę bierzemy.
Jeszcze papu. Tym razem mielonka z kuskusem. Dobra. Garnuszek z naszym jedzonkiem przewrócił się nam w przedsionku. Nie da się tego posprzątać z trawy. Wrażenia estetyczne mierne.
Spadek terenu powoduje drobny dyskomfort, ale kogo to obchodzi. Zasypiam niemal od razu, ale na chwilę. Budzę się i nasłuchuję. Leje bez przerwy. To powoduje jakiś dziwny lęk. Przeszkadza spać. Nasłuchuję. Przestało nie wiem kiedy. Na szczęście już mi ciepło. Śpię…
05-VIII-2007 (niedziela). Okolice Gargalau – Complex Turistic Borsa.
Budzę się około 08.00. Starach wyjrzeć na zewnątrz. Wypycham Bartka, który przekazuje mi przygnębiające informacje. Mgła się utrzymuje. Nadal nic nie widać. Niebo zachmurzone. Ani promyczka słońca. Dobra informacja – nie pada.
W namiocie kałuża wody. Na skutek dużego spadku terenu dotykaliśmy nogami do ścian namiotu, no i spłynęła do środka woda, która, dzięki bezwzględnie szczelnej podłodze, zebrała się przy nogach i zaczęła wsiąkać w nasze śpiwory. Można je wykręcać. W tych warunkach nie wyschną na pewno. Podejmujemy decyzję. Trzeba zejść do cywilizacji i wysuszyć się na jakiejś kwaterze. Tylko gdzie my jesteśmy?
Bartek umiejscawia nas na mapie. Ufam mu. Idziemy. Słońce nieśmiało prześwituje przez chmury. Działa optymistycznie. Po jakimś czasie widzimy w oddali drogę. Jeśli tam dojdziemy, to będziemy uratowani.
Maliny! Mała przerwa nie zaszkodzi. Pasiemy się. Są pyszniutkie. Jagody też. Opycham się i już mi lepiej.
Idziemy dalej. Humor jakoś mi się poprawia. Może dzięki gorzkiej czekoladzie i suszonym śliwkom, a może dzięki temu, że coraz więcej słońca i cel coraz bliżej.
Mówiłam już, że bardzo chciałabym spotkać pasterzy i pogawędzić z nimi trochę? Zdaje się, że jeszcze nie mówiłam, ale to i tak już nieaktualne.
Stoimy na stoku. Widzimy w dole stada owiec poganiane przez pasterzy. To dosyć duże stada, więc decydujemy się poczekać trochę, żeby nie znaleźć się wśród wełnianych „kosiarek do trawy” i nie robić zamieszania. Nagle widzę pędzącego na nas psa, a za nim jego kolegów. Łącznie 5 albo 6 sztuk. Nie zdążyłam policzyć, bo już były przy nas. Wcale się nie cieszyły, że nas widzą. Ujadały, warczały i chciały nas zagryźć. I były coraz bliżej. Otoczyły nas i dalej wściekle nacierały. Dostałam od Bartka kij trekingowy, ale co ja mam z nim zrobić? Znaczy którego psa najpierw przegonić? Walnę jednego, to rzuci się na mnie cała reszta. Robi się nie wesoło. Bartek krzyczy na pasterza, ale ten nie reaguje. Owieczki sobie nadal pogania. W końcu zareagował. Krzyczy coś, ale psy szaleją i go nie słyszą. No to zaczyna biec w naszą stronę, tylko że ma pod górę. W końcu jest przy nas. Psy zamknęły paszcze, ale siedzą i pilnują. Łypią na nas groźnym okiem. W końcu odchodzą. Pasterz dostaje papierosa. Nie chce mi się z nim rozmawiać. Idziemy dalej, ale jestem w szoku. Od tej pory boję się stad i psów pasterskich. Za każdym razem jojczę Bartkowi o tym, ale nie da się uniknąć podobnych zdarzeń w górach rumuńskich. Świadczą o tym również opowieści napotykanych przez nas turystów.
Idziemy dalej. Nasz „szlak” wiedzie przez te cholerne pastwiska. Boję się, ale iść trzeba. Wreszcie droga. Uratowani! A na drodze… Pełno turystów „na szpilkach” i wycieczek szkolnych. Przeżywamy szok cywilizacyjny. Jedni tacy do nas zagadali:
– Daleko jeszcze do jeziora? – pytają.
– A do którego?
– Nie wiemy. Podobno jest tu jezioro.
– A macie mapę?
– Niee…
– A daleko na Prislop? – my pytamy.
– Ooo… Daleko! Około 1 godziny marszu!
– To wspaniale! Jeszcze tylko jedna godzina i wyschniemy :)))
Jesteśmy brudni, przemoczeni i zmaltretowani. Wszyscy się na nas gapią. Szybka zmiana planów i zamiast na Prislop decydujemy się zjechać długim wyciągiem krzesełkowym do Complexul Turistic Borsa. Trzeba do niego zejść spory kawałek po stromiźnie. Szczęście coraz bliżej, chociaż łydki bolą. Ciężkie, nasiąknięte wodą plecaki sprawiają, że wleczemy się noga za nogą.
Doszliśmy do miasta. Udało nam się znaleźć miłego gospodarza i nocleg w miarę przyzwoitej cenie. Dał nam na dzień dobry palinkę. Mocna!
Idziemy do restauracji. Nie ma ciorby??? No dobrze… niech będzie mamałyga z owczym serem i śmietaną. Też dobra!
Noc jest miła, przyjemna, cieplutka. Bartek chrapie.
06-VIII-2007 (poniedziałek). C. T. Borsa – Borsa – C. T. Borsa.
Budzimy się, oczywiście, rano. Organizmy się przyzwyczaiły do wczesnych pobudek.
Robimy sobie maksymalnie leniwy poranek. Czyści i pachnący jemy cudownie odmienione śniadanie. Zamiast codziennych kanapek z pasztetem i z serem topionym wcinamy rybę i prawdziwe pomidory. Jeszcze przepierka i możemy wyruszać do Borszy.
Brzydkie to miasto. Jakieś jakby zagruzowane. Ani skrawka normalnego chodnika nie ma. O dziwo na tym gruzie dziewczyny śmigają na szpilkach jak sarenki. Szpilki noszą do nieba, a żadna nie ma nogi w gipsie. Nieźle!
Kebaba więcej w Rumunii nie zjemy. Nigdy nie leżały obok prawdziwego kebaba.
W centrum miasta brylancik – stareńka cerkiew. Niestety zamknięta i zniszczona, ale warto zobaczyć.
Stołujemy się w „Perle Maramureszu”. Restauracja mieści się w najbardziej pokręconym budynku jaki widziałam w Rumunii. Ma tysiąc balkoników różnej wielkości i z milion okien różnego rodzaju, a do tego wszystkiego podoczepiano na niego ze sto kół od wozów. Nawet nie liczyłam, ile ma porozwieszanych na ścianach sali jadalnej talerzy. Warto tam zajrzeć. Zjadłam wreszcie ciorbę jak należy. Dobre podają jedzonko i niedrogo, a do tego słuszne porcje. No, czasami kelnerka trochę pokręci zamówienia, ale kto by o tym pamiętał…
Jutro znowu jedziemy w góry. Mamy już plan.
Śpimy. Bartek chrapie.
07-VIII-2007 (wtorek). C. T. Borsa – Pasul Prislop.
Pobudka wcześnie rano, ale z tym już nie mamy problemów. Budzik nam nie potrzebny.
No to w góry! Łapiemy stopa do Pasul Prislop. Zaliczamy przejażdżkę chyba najbardziej zdezelowaną ciężarówką (Roman) na ziemi. Ale jedzie! Dobrze, że nie wiemy, co w niej nie działa. Na pewno wskazówki na tablicy rozdzielczej… Dowiozła nas na miejsce.
Z cabany na przełęczy ruszamy w góry.
Albo nie…
Leje…
Rozbijamy namiot pod schroniskiem i czekamy na lepsze czasy. Co zrobić? Przynajmniej nic nie trzeba płacić.
Reszta dnia mija nam na obserwowaniu Cyganów. Okazało się, że niedaleko rozbili obóz. Postawili sobie namioty z folii i czego tylko się dało. Żyją ze zbierania i sprzedaży jagód. Cały klan od rana do nocy na stoku zbiera jagody. Ogromne kosze owoców sortują potem i pewnie zawożą gdzieś do skupu. Część sprzedają przy drodze. Tym się zajmują dzieci. Cały dzień siedzą na poboczu i próbują sprzedać jagody w małych kubeczkach. Od turystów próbują wyżebrać jeszcze co się da. Nas też zaczepiali, ale nie bardzo inwazyjnie. Pracownicy schroniska ich przeganiają.
Okazało się, że rozbiliśmy namiot obok grupy Węgrów. To był już piętnasty z rzędu wyjazd zaprzyjaźnionych rodzin. Zaczynali nie mając jeszcze dzieci, a teraz te dzieci są już zupełnie duże. Cała grupa rozrosła się do około 40 osób i to jeszcze nie byli wszyscy. Okazali się bardzo spokojni i towarzyscy, a do tego zdyscyplinowani i świetnie zorganizowani. Bardzo pozytywne zjawisko.
Nagle coś niebywałego. Schronisko. Środek gór, bardzo przyjemny wieczór – godzina 20.00. Świerszczyki sobie cykają. Pracownik wybiega do szopy za domem i uruchamia agregat prądotwórczy. W całej okolicy rozległ się niemiłosierny warkot. Słychać to pewnie aż w Borszy. Idzie się jednak przyzwyczaić… Trudno. Po pół godzinie jakby ciszej warczy. Trzeba przestać o tym myśleć, bo nie wiadomo, kiedy pan to wyłączy (nie jest wcale powiedziane, że o 22.00). Aż tu nagle, z głośnika przyczepionego na zewnątrz schroniska, rozległa się na całą przełęcz rumuńska muzyka. W połowie disco, a w połowie ludowa, jakby nasza góralska. Tak na cały trzeszczący regulator. Rewelka. Przecież wszyscy wiedzą, że agregat + muzyka = czysty relaks w górach.
Nasi Węgrzy zaczęli tańczyć. Po około pół godzinie przestali i cierpieli z nami w milczeniu.
Pan dał się uprosić i wyłączył muzykę. Posiedzieliśmy sobie z Węgrami przy dźwiękach agregatu, gitary i harmonijki. Bomba. Kolejny raz stanęło, że Polak i Węgier dwa bratanki.
Pójdziemy spać, kiedy nam na to pozwolą, z nadzieją na lepszą pogodę jutro.
08-VIII-2007 (środa). P. Prislop – Vf. Cearcanu – P. Prislop.
Spaliśmy jednak mocno. Tylko Bartek chrapał. Pogoda jest taka jak wczoraj. Decydujemy się na kolejny dzień postoju, z przechadzką bez bagażu. Coś trzeba robić.
Zaliczamy Cearcanu, najwyższy szczyt w okolicy. Po drodze obserwujemy pracę Cyganów. Wielu ich na stokach. Wracamy dosyć szybko, bo wiatr chmury nagania, a trzeba się przeciskać przez kosodrzewinę. Udaje nam się nie zabłądzić.
Znowu agregat i okropna muzyka… Koniec cierpliwości! Następnego dnia idziemy niezależnie od pogody.
Noc jak zwykle – Bartek chrapie.
09-VIII-2007 (czwartek). P. Prislop – Fantana Stanchii.
Idziemy. Chmurzy się nieco, ale jesteśmy zdesperowani. W razie potopu rozbijemy namiocik, wszystko jedno gdzie. Idziemy tak sobie i lekuchno popaduje, ale ogólnie jest przyjemnie.
Około godziny 15.00 w okolicach Fantana Stanchii natrafiamy na dziwadło w środku gór. Jaskrawo – czerwone to jest i widać z daleka. Wygląda na drogi, murowany, dwupiętrowy hotel, ale może pozwolą rozbić namiot na trawie i wziąć prysznic. Tym czasem…
Na miejscu spotkaliśmy dziadka z wnukiem. Pracowali przy cuchnącym świńskim chlewie. Pies ciapek szczekną na nas od niechcenia. Okazało się, że to kolejna cabana i bez problemu możemy się zatrzymać. Nic nie trzeba płacić. Jak tak, to pukamy do drzwi! Na chwiejną pogodę nocleg doskonały. Słychać jak grzmi.
Pukamy, wołamy ale nikogo nie ma. Okazało się, że dziadek z wnukiem to jedyni żywi ludzie w okolicy. Chłopiec pokazał nam pokoje z miejscami noclegowymi. Trzy pomieszczenia, a w każdym po kilka posłanych łóżek. Do tego duża kuchnia. Łazienka w opłakanym stanie, mało estetyczna i z zimną wodą, ale to najmniej ważne. Zajmujemy pokój i wygląda na to, że możemy robić co nam się podoba. Regularne schronisko.
Staramy się uszanować gospodarzy i za bardzo nie ingerować w ich codzienność. Dali nam ziemniaki, cebulkę, olej, świeże mleko. Są bardzo sympatyczni, ale mówią wyłącznie po rumuńsku. Pogawędka szybko się skończyła.
Noc spokojna. Bartek chrapie.
10-VIII-2007 (piątek). Fantan Stanchii – dolina Balasana.
Rano żegnamy się i w drogę. Jest dobrze, aż do czasu, kiedy pasterz ze stadem owiec i psów zmusza nas do zmiany obranego szlaku. Ostatecznie idziemy drogą. Wije się troszkę pomiędzy górami. Zadziwiające, jak zmienia się jej charakter. Na początku urokliwa, z czasem przeistacza się w przemysłowe brzydactwo. Pełno wokół pomników socjalizmu i pozostałości pokopalnianych. Okropna bezmyślność. Nikt się tą szpetotą kompletnie nie zajmuje i nie przejmuje. Po drodze mijamy jeszcze wysypisko śmieci. Wielka hałda wciśnięta w boczną dolinę. Ohyda.
Docieramy w końcu do źródła z naturalnie gazowaną wodą. Miejsce nijak nie urokliwe. Zatrzymują się tam tłumy ludzi z butelkami, żeby zaczerpnąć wody. Ma ona lekko metaliczny posmak, ale wierzę, że nadaje się do picia. Nadaje się nadaje. Obębniłem jakieś 3 litry i nic mi nie było. A smakowała trochę jak niektóre nasze szczawiny wybijające w okolicach Krynicy. [przyp. B.]
Obok widzimy mały przydrożny barek. Zamawiamy wszystko, co tam się podaje. Tutaj jem najlepszą ciorbę de burtę, której smak będę jeszcze długo pamiętać. Następnie cudowne placzinty (placki drożdżowe z owczym serem w środku), a na końcu miczi (grillowane kiełbaski z baraniego mięsa). Wszystko popijamy piwem i… już nie możemy iść dalej.
Właścicielka baru pozwoliła nam się rozbić na polu, obok rodziny Cyganów. Oni się zupełnie nami nie interesują, za to my pstrykamy kilka zdjęć. Ta rodzina stara się zachować czystość. Rozbili namioty obok rzeczki. Dzieci nie są umorusane. Wcześniej mijaliśmy rodzinę, która osiedliła się na wysypisku śmieci. Koszmar! Wysypisko było regularnie podpalane. W tym wszystkim wielodzietna rodzina.
Śpimy smacznie. No i kto chrapie? Dobra, dobra. Ja żadnego chrapania nie słyszałem. [przyp. B.]
11-VIII-2007 (sobota). Dolina Balasana – Baia Borsa – Vf. Stana Iui Vartic.
Rano błyskawiczne pakowanie i szybko na placzintę i miczi. Jakoś przypadło mi to danie do gustu. Po śniadanku znowu w drogę.
Niestety odsłania się przed nami coraz większe gruzowisko, utworzone przez pokopalniane i poprzemysłowe odpady. Ogromne. Znacznie zmienia krajobraz. Na mapach nie ma tych zjawisk, więc można się zaskoczyć. Do tego na około cała masa tartaków. Rumuni wycinają drzewa bez opamiętania. Całe stoki zostawiają łyse. Mam nadzieję, że kiedyś się opamiętają.
Okazało się, że jesteśmy tak blisko granicy, że napotkaliśmy budkę z patrolem policji. Bardzo uprzejmie nas spisali.
Wreszcie docieramy do Baia Borsa. Miejscowość powstała za czasów świetności pobliskiej kopalni, która teraz jest nieczynna i szpeci krajobraz. Mieszkańcy nie mają co robić, więc siedzą w barach. Miasteczko brzydkie i nieciekawe. Stanowimy tu atrakcję. Wyruszamy stąd na Torojagę – najwyższy szczyt w okolicy.
Wybraliśmy dosyć niefortunne podejście drogą, która przerodziła się w ścieżkę, a potem nagle się skończyła, więc trzeba się było piąć wzdłuż potoku. Stromizna niesłychana. Dostaliśmy w kość. Pragnę zaznaczyć, że oboje.
Zaczęło grzmieć i popadywać, więc znaleźliśmy sobie możliwie płaskie miejsce na namiot i nagle zza krzaków wyłoniła się babina z psem, a za nią jej syn drwal i czwórka dzieci. Pies ujada, babcia i drwal rozmawiają do nas po rumuńsku, dzieci się cieszą, bo dostały czekoladę. Zaproponowali, że możemy zrobić im zdjęcia. To ciekawe. Pozowali cudnie. Stwierdzili też, że miejsce w którym chcemy nocować jest niedobre, a 5 minut wyżej znajdziemy polankę z przepięknymi widokami. No to idziemy…
Okazuje się, że widoki, owszem, cudowne, ale nie ma nawet pół metra równego terenu pod namiot. Jak by tego było mało wściekle ujadają na nas zza płota psy pasterskie i nie chcą skubane przestać. Odezwała się trauma sprzed kilku dni. Nie chcę mieć więcej do czynienia z psami.
Znowu wyłoniła się z gęstwiny babcia ze swoim psem i każe iść jeszcze wyżej. Tam nie będzie półdzikich koni i ujadających psów pasterskich. Droga końca nie ma. Wyżej i wyżej, a nam coraz ciężej. Trochę głupio, bo obok leciwa babina w kaloszach i daje radę! Wyprowadziła nas granią prawie do granicy lasu i zostawiła. Dodała na odchodne, że tu mamy piękne widoki i spokój. Tylko nie zauważyła, że krzywo jak diabli.
Rozbiliśmy namiocik na stoku. Nie muszę chyba mówić, jaki był spadek. No i okazało się do tego, że teren jest lekko pagórkowaty i nogi mamy znacznie wyżej niż głowę.
Jedzonko Bartek gotuje na ognisku. Oczywiście mielonkę z dodatkami. Uwędził przy tym menażkę, która przybrała piękny czarny kolor i pachniała mi w plecaku już do końca wyjazdu.
Ostatkiem sił Bartek zaniósł całe jedzenie gdzieś dalej i powiesił na drzewie. Trafiła nam do wyobraźni opowieść babiny, której niedźwiedź w tym roku już trzy jałówki zabił…
To była nieprzespana noc. Nawet Bartek miał przerywany sen. Dopadła nas burza z towarzyszącym jej wiatrem. Pół nocy zastanawiałam się, czy namiocik wytrzyma.
12-VIII-2007 (niedziela). Vf. Stana Iui Vartic – Toroioaga – Baia Borsa – Borsa.
Namiocik wytrzymał. Nie pada, więc pakujemy się i w drogę. W oddali słyszymy jakiś śpiew. Okazało się później, że to jagodziarze. Szli sobie po grani wesoło śpiewając. Byliśmy dla nich dosyć egzotycznym zjawiskiem. Po stoku rozlegały się okrzyki: turisti, Poloneze… Przerywali pracę, żeby sobie popatrzeć.
Nagle, znienacka n
atykamy się na stado owiec. Słyszymy z daleka dzwonki. Kurde. Tam gdzie owce są przecież psy. Jeszcze nas nie wyczuły, więc siedzą cicho. Co tu robić? Innej drogi nie ma. Trzeba iść. Gdzieś między skałami widzę pasterza. Na szczęście jest blisko. No to raz kozie śmierć… Zachowujemy się dosyć głośno. Chcemy, żeby wszyscy wiedzieli, że się zbliżamy, ale jakoś nas nie zauważyli. Stoimy już bardzo blisko stada. Bartek głośno mówi dzień dobry, czym przestraszył wszystkich, z psami na czele. Dały się podejść, a teraz zawstydzone chcą nas zagryźć. Pasterz się poderwał i przeprowadził nas obok stada. Tym razem udało się bez większej kolizji, ale i tak jeszcze długo się oglądamy, czy jakiś pies się nie zapędził i nie poszedł za nami.
Torojaga to bardzo ciekawy szczyt. Góra – dół – góra – dół… Kilka kulminacji i nie wiadomo, która najwyższa. Daje popalić. Niestety na szczycie znowu nagromadziły się chmury przysłaniając nam widoki. Szkoda, bo można by było zobaczyć całe pasmo Rodniańskich z jednej strony, a z drugiej Marmoroskich. Nie mamy szczęścia do pogody. Smutek przepędzamy pysznymi i wielkimi jagodami. Na końcu zejście przez kosówkę. Trzeba się przedzierać. Sił dodaje myśl, że już niedługo odpoczniemy.
Wypaćkani w błocie i wymęczeni schodzimy z Torojagi. Idziemy drogą. Napotykamy nieczynną kopalnię. Robi wrażenie. Nawet nie mogę się zdecydować, czy szpeci krajobraz, czy czyni go ciekawszym. Bartek zachwycony industrialnymi klimatami bez opamiętania pstryka zdjęcia. Przed nami wbrew pozorom jeszcze kawał drogi do miasteczka. Łapiemy dzikim fartem stopa. Po tej drodze raczej nieczęsto ktoś przejeżdża. Zaliczamy przejażdżkę starą, rozklekotaną dacią. Dalej busem do Borszy.
Pod „Perłą Maramureszu” spotkamy znajomych. W Warszawie długo ich nie widziałam, ale można i w Rumunii. Czemu nie? Właśnie przeszli pasmo Rodniańskich. Wykonali nasz plan. Wyszli trochę później od nas i złapali kilka dni dobrej pogody. W „Perle…” spędziliśmy trochę czasu i jedliśmy, jedliśmy, jedliśmy… Pani kelnerce się plątały nasze zamówienia, kuchnia nie nadążała ich wydawać, ale jedzenie dobre. Mamałyga i ciorba nie zrobiły wrażenia na moich znajomych. Proste smaki Rumunii nie wydały im się atrakcyjne. Wyposzczeni wybrali naleśniki, spaghetti i tym podobne potrawy.
Nocleg wykupiliśmy w hotelu. Nie był drogi, ale i standard nie najlepszy. Nie udało się nam wziąć upragnionego ciepłego prysznica. Z nieznanych przyczyn w kranie była tylko zimna woda.
Spałam tak dobrze, że nic nie było w stanie mnie obudzić. Jestem przekonana, że Bartek znowu chrapał.
13-VIII-2007 (poniedziałek). Borsa – Viseu de Sus.
Rano wszystko w chmurach i deszczowo strasznie. Szczyty straszą czernią chmur, które tam się kłębią. Zwłaszcza majestatyczny Pietros, którego zamierzaliśmy zdobyć bez bagaży. Musimy zrezygnować z tego wypadu. Szkoda, ale spacer w chmurach, bez widoczności nie jest satysfakcjonujący.
Jedziemy do Viseu de Sus. Miasto banalne, ale stąd startuje kolejka wąskotorowa (Mocanita). Chcemy sobie zafundować przejażdżkę. Niestety okazuje się, że ciuchcia wyrusza tylko raz dziennie, zawsze o 8.30. O 7.30 musimy się ustawić w kolejce po bilety, bo zainteresowanie ciuchcią jest duże, a wcześniej nie sprzedają biletów. No to szukamy noclegu.
Pani pozwoliła nam rozbić namiot na błotnistym rżysku za domem, za co jeszcze nas skasowała. Trudno. Nie dajemy sobie zepsuć humorów i idziemy na oglądanie miasta i w poszukiwaniu ciorby.
Mamy wyjątkowego pecha. Trafiliśmy na jadłodajnię przypominającą nasz bar mleczny, tylko z obsługą kelnerską. Zapowiadało się znakomicie. Niestety na realizację zamówienia czekaliśmy około godzinę, a jedzenie było bez smaku. Mogliśmy też obserwować, jak rodziny rumuńskie są obsługiwane przed nami, chociaż przyszły dużo później po nas. Atmosfera stała się nieznośna. Wychodzimy stamtąd z niesmakiem.
Zaopatrzyliśmy się za to w pyszny owczy ser.
Wcześnie kładziemy się spać. Leje całą noc.
14-VIII-2007 (wtorek). Viseu de Sus – dolina Vaser (Mocanita) – Viseu de Sus – Viseu de Jos.
Rano okazuje się, że nastał dotychczas najbardziej deszczowy i pochmurny dzień na tym wyjeździe. Dookoła błoto. Musimy się w tym pakować. No cóż. Pojedziemy kolejką, zobaczymy jaka jest pogoda i ewentualnie wyruszymy w góry wysiadając gdzieś na trasie Mokanicy.
Zanim ciuchcia wystartowała, to obejrzeliśmy całe przygotowania wokół niej. Ładowanie drewna i nabieranie wody. Nie odjechaliśmy daleko, a już jesteśmy zmuszeni do pierwszego postoju. Przyczyna to rozerwane, przez spadający ze stoku pień drzewa, tory. Już myśleliśmy, że z przejażdżki nici, ale gdzie tam… Ekipa ciuchci była świetnie przygotowana na taką ewentualność. Odkręciła zniszczoną szynę i wstawiła nową. Przywiozły ją zjawiskowe, budzące radość podróżnych, drezyny. Były to nadwozia samochodów na kołach od pociągu. Ciekawy widok. Drugi postój nastąpił, bo się ciuchcia wykoleiła. No to teraz koniec jazdy… Ale gdzie tam! Ekipa wyjęła lewarki i postawiła ciuchcię z powrotem na szynach.
Jedyne do czego można by się przyczepić, to zachowanie naszych współpasażerów. Ale nie będę się przyczepiać za bardzo. W końcu na swój sposób również mieli radochę z przejażdżki ciuchcią, a że nam zafundowali trochę praskich klimatów…
Bartek raduje się jak małe chłopię. Robi zdjęcia wszystkiemu.
Powrót do Viseu de Sus jest smętny. Mieliśmy przecież zostać w górach, a tu leje i leje…
Trudno. Łapiemy stopa do Viseu de Jos. W pierwszej chacie pytamy o nocleg. Chcemy się rozbić za domem. Spotkaliśmy się z tak serdecznym przyjęciem, że szczęki nam opadły. Rodzina zaciągnęła nas do domu. Przecież jest taki duży. Znajdzie się dla nas miejsce w środku. Po co mamy marznąć w namiocie? A właściwie, to możemy spać w drugim domu, za drogą. On stoi pusty, bo jest szykowany pod wynajem, ale jeszcze nie jest wykończony. Nie ma tam na razie wody. Tam nam będzie wygodnie! No to się zgodziliśmy. Na kolację niespodzianka. Babina przyniosła nam rosół gotowany na kurze. Uśmiechy od ucha do ucha. Próba nawiązania rozmowy. Szkoda, że się nie udaje.
Śpimy „na pokojach”. Jutro zwiedzanie monastyrów. W góry się już nie wybierzemy. Nie muszę dodawać, że Bartek chrapie.
15-VIII-2007 (środa). Viseu de Jos – Bogdan Voda – Ieud – Sieu – Poienile Izei.
Na śniadanie znowu niespodzianka. Babina nagotowała nam zupy. Musimy przecież spróbować zupy z Maramureszu. No to próbujemy. Dobra! Babcia stoi i się przygląda. Trochę dziwnie. Potem stoi i patrzy jak się pakujemy, a kiedy już zakładamy plecaki… Przestaje się uśmiechać i oznajmia (bardziej gestem), że skoro spaliśmy w pokoju, to powinniśmy coś zapłacić. Ona nie wie ile. Ile uważamy. Trzeba było widzieć, jak się skrzywiła, kiedy dostała 20 lei. Niestety mieliśmy 20 albo 50. Co było robić? Dostała 50 lei. W ten sposób zostaliśmy prawie bez pieniędzy, bo kantoru w małym mieście nie idzie spotkać. Ale więcej kosztowała mnie utrata nastroju. Nieszczerość babci jakoś tak mnie zawiodła. Jeszcze długo nie mogłam się otrząsnąć. Bartek chyba też. On miał w pamięci życzliwość Rumunów sprzed kilku lat. Nie da się nie zauważyć zmiany w mentalności ludzi.
Idziemy oglądać cerkwie. Widać jak się wioski wzbogaciły. Dużo murowanych domów. Wioski tracą klimat skansenu, ale jakość życia ludzi wyraźnie się poprawiła. My zostaliśmy bez lei i żyłujemy na wszystko. Dobrze, że mamy jeszcze trochę jedzenia.
Humory poprawiają nam drobiazgi. Ogromny koń i dinozaur, które stały na tyłach gospodarstw, w miejscowości Bogdan Voda. Wyglądają, krótko mówiąc, idiotycznie. Odlane z betonu, przeogromne (większe od otaczających je budynków) i stojące, jak się wydaje, bez celu, schowane przed oczami ludzi.
Potem rozpędzona krowa, która biegnie prosto na nas. Wygląda śmiesznie. Trzeba zejść jej z drogi. Ona podąża własnymi ścieżkami. Przeszła przez miasteczko i skręciła w jedną z uliczek.
No i w końcu ludowe stroje mieszkańców. Mamy przecież dzisiaj święto religijne. Wszyscy, od najmłodszego do najstarszego, chodzą ubrani na ludowo. Niesamowity widok. Zwłaszcza urokliwe są wzorzyste, suto marszczone spódniczki przed kolanko. Taka długość jest tradycyjna i tak się ubierają wszystkie panie, niezależnie od wieku. Trudno tu dyskutować nad estetyką.
Chodzimy od miejscowości do miejscowości (Bogdan Voda, Ieud, Sieu, Poienile Izei) i odnajdujemy tam stareńkie, drewniane cerkwie. Niestety zniszczone i pozamykane, a wstęp za 2 leje od osoby. Jesteśmy spłukani, więc oglądamy je z zewnątrz. Szkoda, że nikt o nie nie dba i ich nie restauruje.
Nocleg znajdujemy w okolicach Poienile Izei na skoszonej łące. Niedaleko drogi, schowana za drzewami i przy źródełku. Czego chcieć więcej. I na równym terenie. I nie ma błota. Wyśpimy się na pewno.
16-VIII-2007 (czwartek). Poienile Izei – Sygiet Marmoroski – Sapinta.
Budzimy się wypoczęci i zadowoleni. Nie mamy ochoty oglądać już kolejnych cerkwi. Łapiemy stopa. Przed nami jeszcze „Wesoły cmentarz”.
Skwar się leje z nieba. To prawdziwa złośliwość. Jak już czas nie pozwala wybrać się w góry, to pogoda dopisuje.
Dosyć szybko docieramy do Sygietu. Tam wreszcie wymieniamy euro i wsiadamy w autobus do Sapinty. Kierowca wesoło i rubasznie używa klaksonu na widok pięknych dziewczyn. Na miejscu płacimy za nocleg pod namiotem. Rozbijamy się w cieniu pod drzewem, a największą atrakcją okazuje się prysznic na świeżym powietrzu. Nagrzana słońcem woda spływa z baniaka umieszczonego nad prysznicem. Jest cieplutka. Wreszcie czyści. Ubrania śmierdzą wszystkim. Wyciągamy z plecaków ostatnie czyste koszulki i idziemy na zwiedzanie cmentarza.
Najpierw oglądamy miejscową cerkiew. Jest jeszcze w budowie, ale już robi wrażenie. Położona w lesie i niezwykle urokliwa. Drewniana, utrzymana w stylu marmoroskim z jedną z najwyższych wież.
Odnajdujemy zaniedbany cmentarz żydowski. Nie można wejść na jego teren, ale widać go doskonale zza ogrodzenia.
Po drodze możemy zaobserwować pracę miejscowych kobiet. Tkają one metodą tradycyjną pledy, dywany, torebki. Najpierw skręcają nić z wełny owczej. Nie używają kołowrotków, ale przędą ją ręcznie. Potem siadają przy krosnach starej, tradycyjnej konstrukcji i tkają na nich rzeczy, które potem wystawiają na sprzedaż. Niezwykle to interesujące, tym bardziej, że na dużą skalę. Myślę, że w Polsce może jeszcze gdzieś można upolować podobne widoki, ale już nie tak łatwo.
Kolejny jest „Wesoły cmentarz”. Nie rozumiemy epitafiów na nagrobkach, ale ręcznie wykonane płaskorzeźby i malunki mówią same za siebie. Cmentarz stanowi ogromną atrakcję turystyczną. Nie ma na nim atmosfery świętości, za to trzeba zapłacić za wstęp. Można też zamówić sobie nagrobek lub kupić miniaturowy, na pamiątkę. Komercha jak się patrzy. A fotografującym odradzam odwiedzanie cmentarza w godzinach popołudniowych i wieczornych. Słońce tak daje, że trzeba się mocno nagimnastykować, żeby co ciekawsze nagrobki uwiecznić. [przyp. B.]
Ostatnie leje wydajemy na palinkę. Jak głosi jeden z nagrobkowych napisów – ona też przyciąga do ziemi.
Spędzamy bardzo miły wieczór. Nic nie zapowiada, że się nie wyśpimy. A przeszkodziły nam pieski gospodarzy, które szczekały pół nocy, broniąc zaciekle swojego podwórka przed kolejnym małym pieskiem niemieckich turystów. Bartek tak się wściekł, że przebudzony w środku nocy wybiegł z namiotu i kijem zaczął przepędzać szczekaczy. Nic nie pomogło. Trzeba było czekać, aż się same zmęczą i pójdą spać. A muszę nadmienić, że naprawdę trzeba się mocno postarać, żeby w środku nocy mnie rozbudzić do tego stopnia, żebym się podniósł i wyczołgał z ciepłego śpiworka i namiotu. [przyp. B.]
17-VIII-2007 (piątek). Sapinta – Sygiet M. – Solotvina – Mukaczewo – Lwów.
Rano śpimy trochę dłużej. Nadrabiamy noc. Przed nami powrót do Polski.
Jemy śniadanie. Psy się na nas obraziły. Nie dały się przeprosić. Pakujemy się leniwie i niespiesznie. Pogoda piękna.
Łapiemy stopa do Sygietu i tam przekraczamy granicę rumuńsko – ukraińską na piechotę. Bardzo sprawnie, przyjemnie i spokojnie. Bez kolejek. Do Ukrainy wkraczamy zabytkowym, odrestaurowanym mostem. Cały z drewna. Szkoda, że nie można robić zdjęć.
Po ukraińskiej stronie resztę pieniędzy wymieniamy na hrywny. Od razu wstępujemy do baru na domowe jedzonko. Pani nam serwuje barszcz ukraiński z prawdziwym chlebem i pielmieny. Najadamy się do syta, a nawet jeszcze bardziej. Pani oznajmia, że nam się rozumy pomieszały, żeby dźwigać, z własnej woli, takie plecaki ciężkie. Podkreśla to kilka razy, ale za to z ogromnym wdziękiem i życzliwością. Miło wreszcie spotkać miejscowych i móc z nimi porozmawiać.
Pociąg do Lwowa odjeżdża na naszych oczach. Człapiemy więc na autobus do Mukaczewa. Upał niemiłosierny. Kleimy się strasznie. Na szczęście autobus przyjeżdża szybko. W środku sauna. Słabo mi się zrobiło. Powietrze wpada przez pootwierane lufciki, ale jest gorące. W Mukaczewie na szczęście już wieczór. Słońce nie jest tak intensywne, ale duszno i parno. Udaje nam się kupić bilety na pociąg do Lwowa i na szczęście nie będą to miejsca przy toalecie.
Wreszcie machina podjeżdża. Ukraińskie pociągi są dużo większe od naszych. W środku wagon podzielony na boksy, a w każdym boksie może spać 6 osób. Nie wiem ilu pasażerów jest w całym wagonie, ale od razu zauważam, że nie da się otworzyć okna. Jest niewypowiedzianie duszno. W naszym boksie jedzie jeszcze pop i rodzice z dzieckiem. Podziwiamy nocną modę wagonową. Większość pasażerów szybko układa się do snu. W końcu my też łapiemy dwie godzinki snu.
18-VIII-2007 (sobota). Lwów – Przemyśl – Warszawa.
Wysiadamy we Lwowie. Kleimy się okropnie, a jaki smród wydzielamy…
Jest godzina 2.00 w nocy. Okazuje się, że najbliższy pociąg do Mościsk odjeżdża po 5.00. Koczujemy więc na dworcu we Lwowie. Walczymy ze snem. Wkrótce pojawiają się grzybiarze, a potem wędkarze. Wyruszają raniutko licząc na dobre zbiory i połów. Na chwilkę orzeźwia nas poranny chłodek, ale już w pociągu, bez żadnej krępacji rozciągamy się na ławkach i łapiemy kolejne dwie godzinki snu. Wysiadamy w Mościskach.
Jeszcze po stronie ukraińskiej jemy sute śniadanie. Budzimy tym duże zdziwienie kelnerek, które są raczej przyzwyczajone do serwowania kolacji. Kawa na trochę stawia nas na nogi.
Do granicy polsko – ukraińskiej już rzut beretem. Chcemy ją przekroczyć na nogach. Co tu się dzieje? Sznur samochodów. Dla pieszych dwie kolejki – oddzielna dla Ukraińców i Polaków. Poza tym wolna amerykanka. Ukraińcy wpuszczają ludzi grupami, na zmianę – raz Ukraińcy, raz Polacy. Jeśli ktoś się nie dostanie w pierwszej partii, to potem musi czekać długo na swoją kolej. Ludzie szaleją. Zaczęło lać dosyć mocno. Napięcie rośnie. Wszyscy się przepychają i próbują wziąć celnika „na masę”. My się załapaliśmy, ale wkurzyło mnie zachowanie ludzi. Celnik karze nam wszystko wyładować z plecaków. Na szczęście szybko zmienia zdanie.
Po polskiej stronie jest już pełna kulturka. Przechodzimy bezboleśnie. W strumieniach deszczu łapiemy busa do Przemyśla.
Tutaj już z górki. Długo czekamy na pociąg, ale za to najadamy się w „mleczaku” i wreszcie zaspokajamy apetyt na owoce.
W Warszawie jesteśmy późno, bo po 21.00. Witają nas Ania i Kuba, którzy wrócili do Polski dwa dni wcześniej. Są czyści i uśmiechnięci. Marzę o spaniu.
Na koniec pozdrowienia i ogromne podziękowania dla Mańka, który choć z nami nie wyruszył, cały czas był gdzieś tam blisko. Czuliśmy jego obecność i w ciągłym, żywym zainteresowaniu naszymi wędrówkami i przygodami i w raportach z prognozami pogody. Maniuś, mam nadzieję, że za rok ruszymy gdzieś razem!
Mnie to tylko ciekawi jak ona przewiozła 230 paczek papierosów w staniku…?:/
Stanik jest częściowo przysłowiowy:) Paczki papierosów umieszczała na sobie w różnych miejscach. Mogliśmy to dokładnie zaobserwować, ponieważ bez żadnego skrępowania chowała towar na naszych oczach.
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